Elizabeth_S.

Uptown is no longer the epicenter of Bohemian life in Minneapolis. Gentrification has forced the artists to Northeast, while Yuppiedom has taken roots in Uptown. Drink is a prime example of this. I went there once last summer, and it was enough: the waitresses in the impossibly tiny shorts (you must have to have the right measurements to get hired there), the clientele in the dance-club outfits...it's a lame vibe. There are many other places in the city that are much better than this. (By the way, there are two Drink locations in Minneapolis--one Downtown, which I was not aware of until now, and one in Uptown.)

Nye's has been a fixture of East Hennepin for as long as I can remember; the number of times I've passed it on bus rides home is probably upwards of several thousand. The appetizers and entrees at Nye's aren't cheap--in fact, I'd rank Nye's as in the top three of the Most Expensive Places in Northeast. It also gets very crowded on the weekends due to its popularity. However, the decor hasn't changed much in the 60 years the place has been open, so it retains its 1950s charm. And Nye's is a lovely place to hang out at on a Monday night when it's devoid of the yuppies and weekend warriors, when you can just relax in the piano bar with a drink, order some Polish noodles, ask the piano player to tickle the ivories with your favorite tune, and cut a rug with the dapper geriatric old timers who seem to be as built-in as the red leather upholstery.

As she rings up my three slices of kasseri cheese, she looks at me with a glint in her eye and asks, "You gonna make saganaki, opa!?" I tell her yes, and that it's my first time making it. She tells me to hang around while she rings up the next customer, and then gives me her recipe:

"Do you have a big fry pan?" she asks. I nod. "You take the cheese and put it in eggs, flour, eggs, flour, then fry on both sides in hot olive oil. Then pour the brandy over the top, light it with a match, then squeeze a lemon over it." She repeats these directions: eggs, flour, eggs, flour, until she's certain I understand. I thank her, smiling as I exit the store.

This transaction takes place at Bill's Imports on Lake Street. This is the only Greek grocery store in Minneapolis, that I know of. There are a few Middle Eastern places that carry Greek items, but this is the only place where you can tell the person behind the counter that you want to make saganaki, and they will not only assure you that you're buying the right cheese, but they will take the time to tell you exactly how it's done.

Bill's Imports stocks an impressive array of cheeses, including three types of feta (Greek, French, goat's milk). By the way--their feta is fresh, milky, soft, and not too strong. Best feta in the Twin Cities. Olives come in many varieties as well, from almond stuffed, to Turkish, to "mamouth". Piquant peppers and dried figs are also among the assorted goodies.

Hours: Mon - Sat - 9:00 - 7:00

When Italian immigrants settled in Minneapolis, they settled near Beltrami Park. (The park was named after one of their own--before the Italians, the park was called Maple Hill. Just a little factoid from me to you.) The Italians of Summer and Spring Streets once had festivals in honor of their saints--not unlike the Feast of San Gennaro in Little Italy--but now, the Italian flavor of the area has faded.

Except for Delmonico's. Delmonico's Italian Foods has stood on Summer Street since 1931. Looking for fresh bread? Spicy Italian sausage? Homemade ravioli? It's all here. Plus, these guys know what you're talking about. Their eyes won't glaze over when you ask them about gaeta olives or mortadella. If you're planning on hosting an Italian feast, get input from these guys. Stop in, even if it's just to buy a soda--mom and pop stores like these are a dying (nearly dead!) breed in the Twin Cities, so I think it's a great thing if we can keep them going.

Let's face it, there aren't many great Italian restaurants in the Twin Cities. I mean, this isn't New York or Chicago. And yes, there was a settlement of Italian restaurants in Minneapolis, but few of the last vestiges of their presence remain (see: Delmonico's Italian Foods).

Vescio's has been in Minneapolis for decades (and its decor seems unchanged, which is part of its charm) and serves up Italian fare that isn't subjected to the standards of some faceless corporation (I'm looking at you, Olive Garden!). For example, I challenge you to find any other place in the Twin Cities that has braciole on the menu. Or homemade fettuccine. Or panfried walleye with angel hair pasta.

You know that scene in "The Godfather" where Michael assassinates the Turk and the police chief in the Bronx restaurant? Well, Vescio's is the closest you'll get to that type of hole-in-the-wall, no frills Italian restaurant in Minnesota. (But don't expect any mob hits. Sorry.)

You're hungry. You open your wallet and you've only got three sad, crinkled $1 bills. The thought of the McDonald's value menu makes your stomach curl in on itself. So where do you take your three dollars and rumbling tummy?

You head over to Mercado Central on Lake Street. Mercado Central is a cooperative of Latin American stores, selling everything from watches to pinatas. There's a cafeteria and several little restaurants that serve up Latin American delicacies. For $3 you can get a pupusa (a Salvadoran corncake stuffed with your choice of fillings) hot off the griddle. Try one with queso and chicharron. These pupusas are very filling and incredibly satisfying. Of course, pupusas aren't the only game in town at Mercado Central. If you have a hankering for tamales, La Loma Tamales serves up a variety of tamales, including vegetarian and sweet tamales, and they cost no more than $2.95 each. Manny's Tortas is very popular and well known for it's sandwiches, although these large, meaty sandwiches will cost you a little more. There's also a bakery with display cases loaded with sweet treats.

The restaurants are open from 9am to 8pm seven days a week, and the shops are open from 10:30 am to 6:30pm.

I have to admit, that I found my trek to Plaza Garibaldi to be a little scary. I was dragged to it by a friend. When we got there, it was after midnight and the party was just getting started. We'd passed through a seemingly sketchy area to get there, so I was nervous, and the music didn't really help. You see, it wasn't one mariachi band. It was about fifteen or twenty different mariachi musicians playing fifteen or twenty different songs at any given time. ("So, it was just noise then?" You ask. Well, yeah. Pretty much.) We bought micheladas for 15 pesos, and a song for 20. Then we went into the Mercado San Camilito and ate pozole.

The highlight of this outing? The pozole.

This is the kind of place you should see just because it's a little spooky and kinda weird, and you'll definitely get an anecdote or two out of it. Just remember, if you do come for the music, stay for the pozole. Oh, and eighty-six the music.

The Norwich Market dates back to 1086 AD, when Saxons roamed the earth. With 190 stalls, the market is a great way to spend a Saturday morning or Monday afternoon. One sunny morning, I lingered over a pile of oranges that were darker than your average Florida navels, and the vendor said to me, "Those are for marmalade. You can't eat them." I'd never seen marmalade oranges before, and every so often, I'll think about that day and wish I could go back to Norwich, buy a bushel of those oranges and try my hand at homemade marmalade.

Another thing I'd never seen before I visited the Norwich Market: Mushy peas. What are they? you ask. Well, what do you think? They are exactly how they sound. Mushy. Peas. Peas that are mushy. Doesn't sound good? No worries. You can get fish and chips in the market too. Or sausage and chips. Or Chinese take-out. Or Hog Roast and Jacket Potatoes.

And after you're done pigging out, you can buy a new pair of pants in the next size up! There are several stalls selling clothes and shoes for men, women and kids.

There's plenty more to see at the market, so pop by Monday-Saturday and see what pops out at you!

"We sell over 1/4 Tonne of mussels EVERY WEEK!" boasts the website of The Belgian Monk. If you like shellfish, The Belgian Monk prepares mussels in a variety of flavors, including Provencal, "Mexicaans", and Indonesian. As starters, the mussles are relatively cheap at 6-9 pounds each. As a main course, it'll cost you more--the main courses start at £14.95 and go up from there.

The Belgian Monk also boasts a vast array of Belgian beers which start at around £2.30 for a half pint.

After dinner, try the Belgian chocolate cake--you know you want to.

The Belgian Monk has ambiance dripping from the walls and is a cozy place where you can relax and lift a pint with your mates.

Sinsin's isn't just a place to buy sex toys. It's also a landmark. When I studied at the University of East Anglia, I lived in a dorm that was in the center of town, and whenever someone wasn't sure how to find the dorm, we'd say, "Do you know where Sinsin's is?" "Of course," they'd say. Everyone knows where Sinsin's is.

Sinsins sells all kinds of things, including cream filled willies and after dinner nipples.

Ever wonder where Muscovites like to get married? Kolomenskoye is a popular place for weddings--if you come here on a warm enough day you can see at least a half dozen tulle clad brides screaming "I got married!!" Kolomenskoye is a great place for people watching and for getting some fresh air while taking in some architecture and history. There is a very famous cathedral that commemorates the birth of Ivan the Terrible and was the first stone church to be built in a "tent" style--these are important facts, believe it or not. At Kolomenskoye, there's a palace and several cathedrals as well as a couple of little cafes where you can eat what passes for pizza in Russia, drink Cola Light and listen to Ace of Base.

Take the green line to Kolomenskaya.

The All Russian Exhibition Center (or ВДНХ as it is known to Muscovites and as you should know it, if you want to find it) is an enormous complex of pavilions--not dissimilar to a state fair grounds--where exhibitions of all sorts take place all year round. In my first few weeks as a student in Moscow, I visited ВДНХ twice with my khozyaika. We took in a book fair and a flower show. In the past, there have been Tattoo expos, ice cream expos, "Intellectual and Adaptive Robots" expos just to name a few. Coming up in the next few months is a hunting and fishing expo, jewelry expo and church bells expo. There are a lot of other exhibitions on the docket that are less interesting, but there is a handy schedule on the website--don't worry, it's in English--that you can check to see if there's anything happening that you'd like to check out while you're in town. ВДНХ is chocked full of examples of Soviet architecture and Soviet history.

Does that sound boring? Well, there's also a Paint Ball club here, which has an obstacle course, a trench, and "Experienced coaches [who] will offer up to 40 different game scenarios to you". According to the website: "Paint-Ball will give you unique feelings; helps get rid of stress and to self-affirm, to feel the sense of victory." In Moscow, you'll need a way to blow off steam.

There are also concerts, discos, parties, petting zoos and all kinds of things going on here. If I remember correctly, I believe there is also a Ferris wheel. To get to ВДНХ, all you have to do is get on the orange line and get off at ВДНХ.

One caveat: I didn't participate in the paint ball while I was there, so I can't vouch for it personally, but I can say with some assurance that if you enlist the help of one of the "experienced coaches," the experience will be intense. Be forewarned.

Completed in 1860, demolished in 1931, and rebuilt in the 1990s, the Cathedral of Christ the Savior is worth visiting on its historical merits alone. In order to make room for a "Palace of Soviets", which was never built--they put a pool there instead--the original cathedral was demolished in 1931. In 1990, steps were taken to rebuild the cathedral on its original spot, and the resurrected cathedral stands there today, in all its golden glory. The cathedral is a bit controversial among Muscovite--some believe that rebuilding it was a waste of money and others are happy to see its beauty restored.

As beautiful as it is on the outside, the inside is even more stunning. Covered from floor to ceiling in icons and frescoes that rival the Sistine Chapel, the cavernous cathedral will amaze you. (And something tells me the lines are probably shorter here.) The cathedral is open from 8am to 8pm every day. Be sure to remove your hat if you're wearing one, and if you're a woman, tie a kerchief around your hair. The place will be full of tourists but it's still a house of worship, so be respectful.

Looking for matryoshki? A fur hat? A shirt that says "CCCP"? Lacquer boxes? You can buy all these things on the old Arbat street, but if you want to pay a lot less for them, you're going to have to haul your ass over to the Vernisage at Izmailovsky park. Here, you will find a much larger selection of souvenirs, lower prices, and more bargaining power. I did all of my Christmas shopping here; I loaded up on inexpensive matryoshki (nesting dolls, in case you didn't know), hand carved, handpainted Christmas ornaments, a hat made of silver fox fur and more. I don't remember exactly what I spent but I stayed well within my budget.

The Vernisage is a little out of the way but not hard to find: if you're on the ring line, transfer to the blue line at Kurskaya and get off at Izmailovskiy Park. Once you get off the train, you'll be right where you want to be. You can't miss it.

Imagine ruthless Soviet Dictator, Josef Stalin, in a Speedo, sunning himself on a pebbly beach. The Russian resort town of Sochi, located on the Black Sea coast in the Krasnodar region, has been around for centuries, but it was Stalin who turned it into a popular resort. I visited Sochi in 2004, and at the time it was still pretty rundown, with most of the 1960s style buildings exhibiting a lot of wear and tear. Five years later, Sochi is preparing to host the Winter Olympics in 2014 and, as throughout the rest of Russia, there's a lot of renovation going on.

I stayed at the Hotel Moskva, which, according to photos on the website, seems to have undergone quite a dramatic renovation. It no longer retains the derelict charm that I enjoyed while I was there. However, the important thing about the hotel is not the hotel itself but it's proximity to the city beaches Kazavskaya Riviera and Mayak.

A 5-10 minute walk from Hotel Moskva puts you right on the water. The beaches are pebble, not sand--which is a plus or minus depending on how much of the beach you like to take home in your trunks. The water is warm and the sunsets are glorious. Among the things you can see on this beach: old women walking up and down the boardwalk selling locally grown grapes and kvas (a soda-like drink made from fermented bread), monkeys on leashes, figs, stray dogs, muscular shirtless fishermen, vendors, beer and maybe even a sedated lioness.

These beaches may not have the crystalline white sand of beaches in Florida, but they are far more interesting.

Palacio de Bellas Artes not only houses paintings and murals done by Mexico's great artists, the building itself is a work of art. With a golden dome and a marble facade, the Palace of Fine Art boasts Beaux-Arts stateliness on the outside, while displaying debonair Art Deco features on the inside. I took as many photos of the building as I did of the art.

The museum contains many murals, including a small scale version of the one comissioned by Rockefeller and painted by Rivera that was destroyed when Rockefeller insisted Rivera remove Lenin's likeness. Of course, Diego Rivera isn't the only game in town--it's just that I saw so many other artists that I can't remember their names!

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 6 pm. You'll have to pay a nominal fee to get in, and a little extra if you want permission to take photos inside the museum. There's a bookstore to browse once you're done taking in the art.

Theatre Building Chicago (hereafter referred to as TBC) has two meanings: "theater building" aptly describes this nondescript edifice on Belmont Avenue, but it also describes what goes on in this nondescript edifice. TBC is home to a workshop that helps emerging writers of musical theater hone their craft and develop their projects. Musical theater is built here. Get it?

This is a fun way to spend a Sunday afternoon. I paid $15 to see five ten minute musicals--all of which were written by workshop students. Aside from student written shows (which are fantastic--you'll be amazed at what you see and hear), well known plays are performed here as well. Who knows--you might see a ten minute musical here that turns into a major Broadway hit someday. How much more avante guard can you get? Now through July 11th, "La Cage Aux Folles" is playing. Tickets are $27. There's valet parking and a concessions stand in the lobby, so enjoy some tea and snacks before or after the show.

If you're a lyricist, playwright or composer, you should consider taking part in this workshop. See the website for details about fees and applications.

I wish I'd tried the jellyfish sashimi. I guess my mind was somewhere else. Oh well. I had the octopus sashimi, which was yummy as was the spicy salmon roll, and the plum paste and radish sprout roll. These are things you don't see in every sushi joint. The staff was attentive--the waitress repeatedly refilled my water glass--and the service was prompt. The prices were par for the course for sushi, with rolls starting at around $4 a piece and sashimi at around $2. If you happen to be staying in Greektown and want something other than tzatziki, get your wasabi on at Sushi Loop.

The rooms at Parthenon Hostel on Halsted Street are monastic to say the least--my 8x8 room had bare white walls, a bed and a window with a view of a brick wall. The location, in the heart of Greektown, definitely makes up for the Spartan quality of the rooms, and the staff is friendly and helpful. When I needed to know how to get to the Old Town Art Fair, they explained which trains to take until they were sure I understood, all without a trace of annoyance. Continental breakfast is served from 7:30-9:30. Whether or not you'll like said breakfast depends on how you feel about hardboiled eggs. The hostel rules are pretty strict--there's no eating or drinking of alcohol allowed in sleeping rooms. But you can drink plenty of alcohol in the adjacent bar and restaurant (The Parthenon Restaurant has a door that leads to the hostel), and if the bartender likes you, he might let you kill off the bottle for no extra charge. There's wifi in the common room, but only one available computer, so you'll have to wait your turn. If the thought of a depressing little room with no TV is too much to bear, keep in mind that this hostel is the cheapest place to stay that isn't by the airport.

After buying olives and strawberries at the Vucciria market in the center of Palermo, we took a crowded bus to Mondello beach, where we sprawled out in the soft sand and munched lazily on our purchases before diving into the translucent Mediterranean waters. The sand and the water were both warm.

The beach attracts tourists from all over (don't be surprised to see a few British families wearing matching shirts) but isn't terribly crowded. Several buses stop here and its only ten minutes from downtown Palermo.

La Vucciria is an open air market in the center of Palermo, Sicily, that is 700 years old. According to an article that ran in the New York Times last year, the market is fading away, being choked by developers (I promise I won't launch into a rant about how developers stamp out culture and vibrancy to put up bland soulless condos and line their pockets...oh...sorry...) which makes it all the more imperative to visit La Vucciria. Not only to patronize it and keep it alive, but to make sure you experience it before--God forbid--it really does become a thing of the past. In La Vucciria, the fruits are shimmering, the vegetables gleaming and the marshmallows are three feet long. When I visited this market, my friends and I bought delicate wild strawberries and juicy green olives in paper cones. We watched several men saw up an enormous tuna fish. We picked up some Bacardi Breezers--something I haven't found since--and headed off to the beach. La Vucciria is located near the intersection of Vittorio Emanuele and Via Roma and opens every day but Sunday at 6am. I've never forgotten my trip to La Vucciria, and promise that neither will you.

Of all the cities I visited while traveling through Italy, Palermo was my favorite. Palermo had a vibrant earthiness that the more pristine Italian cities lacked, and I felt more connected to the culture here. Of course, part of of the reason for this connection was the view from my hotel room. Through the gauzy blue curtains, I could see into the apartment across the alley, and I watched as a family came home in the middle of the day and sat down to their mid-day meal before leaving for work again. Watching them, I wished I lived in Palermo too.

The Hotel Regina is conveniently located, just a few blocks from the Central Station. There is plenty of food and shopping nearby, and being within walking distance of everything means you can drop off your stuff and go exploring. The rooms are clean and quiet and reasonably priced: 28 Euro for a single room (bathroom is in the hallway), 50 Euro for a double room without a bathroom and 60 Euro for a double room with a bathroom, and 78 Euro for a triple room (with a bathroom, of course).

This is the coolest thing I saw in Moscow: Katherine the Great's unfinished palace. Built between 1775 and 1796, the palatial ensemble was intended for Katherine the Great, but the palace was never lived in--and never finished--until 2007. When I saw it, it was a crumbling, weed-choked ruin. Now it's been restored, and the crumbly, weedy goodness has been replaced with pristine masonry and cheery red bricks. I'm partial to ruins, so I'm a tad disappointed that the mayor of Moscow decided to disturb an historical monument in this manner, but the renovated building is gorgeous and is both an architectural wonder and an astounding example of a restoration. The park that surrounds the palace (and the several other buildings that surround the palace) is an expansive, verdant refuge where you can get some fresh air and exercise. Take the green subway line to Tsaritsino, and from there it's just a ten minute walk.

Though quite unattractive on the outside, the Central House of Artists (Центральный Дом Художников)is home to some seriously eye-popping art. There is a lot to take in here, so this is a good thing to do if you've got time to kill or want to stay dry on a rainy day. Concerts take place here from time to time, as well as film screenings. There is also an extensive gift shop--in fact, the New York Times claims that gift shopping is the real reason people visit CHA. I don't know whether that's true--I went to CHA to see some art, and to get away from my cranky khozyaika, but I did end up buying a "Cheburashka" video tape to give as a gift, so there you go. Tickets are 150 rubles (a little over 4.5USD) and CHA is open from 11am to 8pm, and the cashiers until 7. You can get to CHA by getting off the metro at either Oktyabrskaya or Park Kulturi.

There are large swatches of land in these United States where "Mexican food" means Chipotle or Taco Bell and little else; places where the food is stamped with a corporate logo and bears no resemblance to real Mexican food. Fortunately, here in Northeast Minneapolis there are plenty of other--tastier--options, and at the epicenter of these options is Adelita's Mexican Restaurant. Open 365 days a year (Seriously! Check the website!) from 9 am to 12 pm, Adelita's serves generous portions of traditional Mexican dishes for lower-than-reasonable prices. Try the Tamales Rancheros ($7.99) or the chicken mole for the same price. Beers are $3.50--michelada for $4.99. It can get loud on karaoke nights, so if you want to avoid hearing someone sing "Si No Te Hubieras Ido", make sure you come and eat before nine. Of course, if YOU want to sing "Si No Te Hubieras Ido," you'll be more than welcome to do so.