Carly.

The 6th arrondissement, around the Luxembourg Gardens, is teeming with high schools, grammar schools, and even universities. No wonder the streets are lined with sandwich-porting mobs of ravenous students from 12-2. However, the lengthy lines forming at bakeries at lunchtime are a pretty reliable way to tell which is the "best" place to grab your noontime baguette.

5 Rue Vavin is my standby boulangerie. I've stood in enough neighborhood lunch lines to know the home-made mayonnaise is worth waiting for, and the prices are more than reasonable.

My pick? "Thon" (tunafish) or "Poulet curry" (Chicken curry). Don't forget to grab a pastry or Rose de Sable (crunchy chocolate dessert) for dessert.

A visit to Midi Vins is, if anything, relaxing : the essence of the perfect low-key night out.

Situated on the charming Rue du Cherche-Midi- walking distance from Montparnasse, Saint Sulpice, and the Luxembourg Gardens- here you find yourself dining among the locals. The restaurant is run by a friendly couple and frequented by a loyal clientele, but the hostess will treat new faces just as well as even her most committed customers.

The blanquette de veau (a veal dish in peppery cream sauce) and the meat terrine (similar to paté, a base of meat, gelatin, and seasoning) were spectacular, but the real compliment is that every dish produced by this single-chef kitchen is a joy to eat : perfectly cooked and beautifully presented, but without the stereotypical pretension of French "haute-cuisine".

And let's not forget the extremely affordable 2 or 3 course prix-fixe menu.

From start to finish, an exceptionally welcoming and delicious evening.

Fact : Refuge des Fondues is probably one of the more touristy restaurants I've ever frequented in Paris.
Fact : French people continue to go to this restaurant despite the omnipresence of drunken, boisterous foreigners at neighboring tables.

What to make of this paradox?

Quite simply, the cheap 18-20 euros, wine included (about 1/3 a bottle, served in a baby bottle) menu is too good to pass up. Whether cheese (gooey, succulent, rich) or meat (served raw, then you fry it at the table in hot oil) - this interactive meal is a real pleasure, and the tiny wait staff makes sure you feel right at home with their brash jokes and snarky comments.

This isn't the place for a romantic date- the heavy food alone will make you feel anything but sexy. However, if you're game for sparking conversation with interesting strangers and study-abroad students crammed next to you at banquet-style tables- dining at RdF can be an exceptionally entertaining evening. Plus, the hike up to nearby Sacre Coeur post-dinner offers an exceptional night-time view (and can help speed-up the digestion process).

I can't believe I even uttered the words.
"Where do you want to go to dinner?", he said.
"Anywhere not French", I responded.

Here in the city of escargot and duck, chocolate mousse and cheese, wine and bread and butter, puddles of delicious butter...
and all I wanted was spicy, fresh, crunchy, clean, light, savory..."how about korean?"

I have to say, this restaurant was a revelation- the salty, fluffy mushroom cakes, simple bouillon soup, pickled vegetables, spicy sauteed meats & fried-egg-topped noodle dishes...heaven. Even the kimchi (spicy fermented cabbage) was a delight. I've never gone to a Korean restaurant before, since I usually avoid things linked to the word BBQ unless I feel like eating an elephant - but this restaurant mixed the pro-vegetarian flare of most asian cuisines with a distinctively delightful (and not deep-fried, over-sauced) carnivore element.

I've heard it said that Paris has the best asian cuisine in the western hemisphere, and L'Arbre de Sel is certainly setting the bar high.

When I found out that Julia Child's favorite cooking store still existed in Paris, I thought it would be a tourist wasteland. To say the least, I was happily surprised.

E. Dehillerin is a cooking store for those who want to de-feather their own chickens, learn ice carving, and cook fault-less chocolate soufflés. The whisk section (yes I said "section") is right next to the industrial deli-meat slicers, just in case you needed to pick one up for the next time you're making charcuterie platters for 500.

Seriously, this is heaven. Even if you don't have a kitchen that can fit any more stuff, just to gaze down the aisle of spatulas and imagine what-the-heck-they-are-all-used-for is a trip.

If you love Top Chef, Iron Chef, Julia & Julia, or even Anthony Bourdain- this is a do-not-miss.

"Tricoter" means "to knit" in French. And I don't know why, but sometime during my senior year of college it seemed like everyone and their meathead boyfriend had started knitting- so I've spun up my fair share of hats and sweaters. So to fall upon a colorful, organized, knitting and beads/crafts store that doesn't feel like Walmart? Clutch.

I'm not going to say I actually have had the time to knit while I've been studying in Paris, but I may or may not have purchased some turquoise mohair yarn (on sale!) to play with when I'm back in the States for the holidays- and the technicolor facade (and inside) of this shop always is reason enough for a detour by Les Halles.

Les Halles was originally the market district of Paris, before rodent infestations and other sorts of health problems prompted the city to create the Rungis Market (a cleaner, modern central market outside Paris).

However, the originally dirt, grime, and (certain) residents of this formerly infested city center are (not) alive and well at this boutique, where rats exterminated circa 1925 give you a pretty good idea of why people weren't so sad to see Les Halles go.

A must for afficionados of kitsch quirk.

There's no entry fee to the Ecole des Beaux Arts; you simply need to walk through the gate like you know where you're going. From wacky exhibits in the Chapel (where the walls are already covered with paintings and the side temple honors artists, not saints) to the Italianate gardens, this is a completely different side of the Parisian University system than the Sorbonne (which you can't enter anyway if you're not a student).

Definitely worth a stop if you're in the neighborhood of Saint-Germain, the Louvre or the Academie Francaise (or a reason to head in that direction). When I was there the chapel was showing a "Noah's Arc"-esque exhibit complete with taxidermy. Just looking into the classrooms to see what a premiere European art school looks like is interesting enough in itself, and the multi-generational architecture is a physical testament to the many different eras and functions of this incredible institution.

First thing to know : this isn't Saint Germain de Pres.

The 104 (CENTQUATRE) is a communal, contemporary art space opened in October 2008 that sits in the middle of one of the less-desirable arrondissements of Paris. In a neighborhood better known for unemployment and high school drop-outs, the 104 is a cultural revolution, bringing art to the people it usually excludes.

You never know what will be going on at CENTQUATRE, with a rotating list of artists (of all genres) displaying or even actively creating their work in what used to be the centralized home to the city's funeral services.

Check out the program or simply wander over to investigate; unless you've mastered the contemporary art gallery scene, it's your best bet to checking out the newest, best, and wackiest art that Paris has to offer.

When you think of Paris, what comes to mind? Timeless, chic, simple...but maybe a bit cold or stiff?

Not at Favela Chic. This Brazilian export serves up sizzling plates, solid cocktails, and a 100% danceable playlist (and I don't mean electropop).

After a grey rainy day or a long week of work, you can't help but crack a smile at the neon-lit kitsch decor and savory aromas coming from the kitchen. Even the most uptight will be swaying in their seat and mingling with the people at the next table.

A must for the anti-nightclub, pro-dancing crowd.

Free entry tuesday-thursday, or get there early for dinner on the weekends to avoid the 10 euro cover.

Paris is known for its museums. From the Louvre to the d'Orsay, the Rodin to Centre Pompidou, Palais Tokyo, Carnavalet, Arts Décoratifs...you get the idea.

But for those who crave a little fresh air, were en route to the Eiffel Tower, and wanted to enjoy a quick cultural moment by the Seine, I suggest checking out the PhotoQuai.

Across the street from Musée Quai Branly (37 Quai Branly), this FREE exhibit will last through the 22nd of November 2009, and features photographers from all over the world.

So whether you prefer surrealistic images of Antartica, cross-dressing cowboys, or pop-art kitchen disasters, you'll feel mentally refreshed and slightly less touristy before (or after) you hit up the iron maiden down the street.

This is a museum for the real art lovers, those who actually want to look at each piece, rather than race around with a museum "to do" list.

I wouldn't describe myself as a photography "afficionado". I enjoy beautiful photographs, just as any person can, given their proximity to real life. However, this museum was kind of a conversion experience. I found the exhibits to be particularly well selected, as the artistry wasn't out-shined by a program of social relevance.

Better yet, I had been pounding the pavement for hours, but I was surprised to find how relaxing it was to stroll through these galleries- which were small enough to prevent boredom, but large enough to leave you with a solid grasp of each artist or genre.

Entry is free every Wednesday from 5-8pm, but I'd recommend it even at full fare.

Blé Sucré isn't La Durée. There are no lines of ravenous tourists piling out the door to buy a product that one would only assume is done better somewhere else.

Despite the fact that food-writer (and former Chez Panisse pastry chef) David Leibovitz has raved about the place on his blog, I arrived there on a Saturday morning and was the only one in the store, free to peruse the flaky, buttery goodness of every object in sight. I would recommend the pastry-dough based options, like the escargot de brioche (a snail shaped, egg-based, flaky spiral covered with carmelized sugar) or the pain aux raisins (cripsy coil filled with raisins). --Leibovitz suggests the madeleines, but I'm not really a fan of the lemon glaze on these traditionally soft, springy cakes.--

Madeleines aside- I try out about a dozen boulangeries/patisseries each month, and I've rarely seen (or tasted) pastry that beats this unassuming shop.

Like boulangeries (bakeries), I'd say that two things make a good cheese shop- how they look, but more importantly, how they smell.

This little gem of a fromagerie is one of the stinkiest I've ever visited- which means that a carefully tended and aged chunk of heaven is delightfully close to hitting your tongue. The shopkeepers are also very helpful and obviously spend some time eating their own product, because they can tell you what each product will taste like, making your choice easier (...or harder).

Either way, you're bound to find something you've never heard of or seen before, so you're well on your way to mastering all 360 types of those glorious french cheeses.

Galleries Lafayette is a high end department store and therefore, should be totally void of potential for Where's Cool. However, hipsters, couchsurfers, & cheap-chic romantics can still take advantage of 3 snazzy bargain features of this historical shopping landmark.

You can see both (1) the ridiculously beautiful and historically relevant stained glass ceiling and (2) the spectacular view from the rooftop deck for free, and (3) if you're hungry lunch in the cafeteria is actually pretty cheap (a small salad bar plate is about 4 euros, fresh, and plenty filling).

Yes, there will be tourists outside. Yes, you might vomit on the woman buying 700 euro Louboutins. But if you can manage to get off your dive bar, thrift store, off-the-beaten-path high horse and just wander in for a while, it's actually pretty amazing.

PS- I promise they won't try to make you buy a Louis Vuitton bag.

I don't know why it took me so long to finally make it to Place d'Aligré. Quite a few French foodies have told me it is hands-down the best market in Paris, and it's only a short walk from the Bastille.

Half historic covered market, half rambling outdoor stalls, this diverse & reasonably priced market offers everything from a well-stocked belgian beer shop to remarkable italian specialty goods & more bizarre cuts of meat than I care to remember. And, of course, there are plenty of friendly shopkeepers eager to have you sample their delicious find of the day.

In terms of quality/variety/value, I'd definitely agree that Aligré is the best- plus, it's less touristy than the Richard Lenoir market at Bastille. The only thing it lacks is a bread shop, but there are at least 3 outstanding boulangeries nearby.

**Open everyday except Monday.

I kid not with the religious reference; this is a culinary pilgrimage. For those who dream about their Jewish/Italian/Greek/Indian grandma's old-school specialties while simultaneously drooling over the new menu at the Cambodian/Moroccan/Lebanese/Peruvian restaurant down the street...this is the store for you.

Their not kidding when they say Epicerie du monde ("spice shop of the world")- every savory, spicy, salty, or indescribable flavor that ever hit your tastebuds hangs out here. I personally was pumped when I saw the Israeli Halvah & 2 varieties of crushed red pepper (Parisians don't eat much spicy food).

If nothing else, it's a great place to grab gifts for friends without getting ripped off by a tacky souvenir stand next to the Eiffel Tower.

Finding great nightlife in Paris sounds pretty easy, but anyone perusing beyond the touristy Latin Quarter & sketchy Erasmus parties will tell you it ain't that simple. With 20-euro cover fees at most of the top clubs (not to mention a slightly nauseating music selection and questionable middle-aged men aggressively hitting on female 20-somethings) and few "centralized" bar streets where you can hop in and out of places, you want to be sure when you head out that you have somewhere great in mind.

Alimentation Générale offers just that. Whether its exemplary live music (for free or a max-5 euro cover) or just an oldies-loving DJ on a saturday night, this "Grocery Store" draws in an eclectic and low-key clientele that refuses to put up with the Champs-Elysees.

Only drawback? The place is a sweatbox, and you'll definitely want to dance. Dress down to impress & leave the scarves at home.

The Marché des Enfants Rouges (Market of Red Children) is the oldest in Paris, dating from the 1600s. However, the cuisine is anything but dated, with a range of outdoor dining from organic/vegetarian to Morrocan and Italian food. It's only a short walk from the Centre Pompidou, but you won't see many tourists here, which makes for a relaxing lunch. I'd go for the north-african/moroccan fare, which is excellent in Paris, due to the strong maghreb immigrant population.

If Woodstock picked up and moved to Paris, it might look something like "Fete de l'humanité". This 3-day communist festival is no joke, and it definitely isn't in Rick Steve's guidebook. With Manu Chao headlining Friday night and a Rachmaninov's 2nd symphony closing on Sunday, Fete de l'huma is a musical smorgasborg- and while dreadlocks, bohemian dress, and public toilets might be what you notice first, there's enough political fervor to make this a legit communist rally. This year's slogan? "Stoppons la grippe capitaliste" = Stop the capitalist flu.
If only Purell was cool enough to use such slogans.

There's always been a heated debate about what is the "best view in Paris". Some say from the top of the Eiffel Tower, others from Tour Montparnasse or Sacre Coeur. But if you want to see all these famous monuments in your skyline without paying or waiting in line, the best place to go is Centre Pompidou.

I love modern art, but if you're not a fan, you don't have to pay the museum fee to get a view from the top. Just go to the elevator to the left of the main entrance and tell the porter you want to go to the cafe on the top floor. He'll let you up, and from there you can take all the breathtaking photos you like. Take it in for 10 or so minutes and then head down again. Consider it a white lie or downright deception, but it works- and who knows? you might choose go to the cafe after all.

When eating in Paris, where every food shop looks better than the next, it can sometimes seem silly to hunt down one particular place. But as someone who eagerly eats plain old marshmallows out of the bag, when I saw a window full of gourmet 'mallows -I knew it was too good to miss.

Whether you prefer pistachio or chocolate w/nuts, rose or caramel, each marshmallow is like eating a gooey cube of cloud. And if you like a bit more to chew on, you can always try the white chocolate & nut lollipop, with a surprise hazelnut 'mallow filling.

This slogan is something that one might typically see on the t-shirt of some asshole guy with too much hair-gel in New York (who frankly, I doubt lives in Manhattan)-- but in the case of actual italians...sometimes this is true.

On Rue Rambuteau (one of my favorite food streets in Paris), it's pretty hard to make up your mind, with more than enough drool-worthy windows to intrigue your tastebuds. But even though I've walked past Foccaceria at least 25 times, yesterday was the first time I actually got to eat there, because if you try to buy a sandwich during lunch hour (or after), they're usually sold out.

While that might sound like annoying trait for a food-store, it always impressed me- so when I grabbed my sandwich an hour or two in advance, and then finally sat down to take a bite, I wasn't surprised to find out that it was really, truly, better.

I can't tell you the number of times I've cured an American friend's peanut butter craving with a trip to this store. It ain't cheap, at something like 7 or 9 euro for a regular jar of Jiff. It actually feels like a sin, when there's so much delicious food on sale everywhere you look (for much, much cheaper prices).

But sometimes you just don't want a nutella crepe. You don't want tiny coffee cups. You don't even want those drop-dead-gorgeous baguettes. You want peanut butter, carrot cake, and kraft mac n' cheese. Cuz' you're american, dammit, and we're hooked on our "sub-par" grub.